Shoe making



yMarch 20, 1934. F. HOLLAND r AL Y 1,951,913

SHOE MAKINGv 'I Blaauw. [1, l1930 z sheets-sheet 1 A .'NF'ENTORS MEVAQ. YMMM# ML v B K MMM Mag-ch 2Q,A 193.4. F. HoLLAND Er AL A 1,951,913

snor: MAKING l I Filed Nov. 1, 1930 2 sheets-sheet 2 lNvENToRS Patented' Mar. 20, 1934 UNITED STATES y PATENT OFFICE SHOE MAKING Application November 1, 1930, Serial No. 492,632

15 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and methods of manufacturing the same, and more particularly to shoes having the appearance of the welttype shoe,'but which in fact are formed without a welt.

A general object of the invention is to provide a novel and useful shoe having a neat appearance, marked flexibility of sole and good wearing qualities, and a convenient, eflicient and economical method of making the same.

A more particular object of the invention is to provide a shoe and method of manufacturing the same in which a welt effect is obtained without the use of a welt, and in which the upper is secured to the sole by means of a suitable adhesive, such as pyroxylin cement.

A specific object of the invention is to provide a method of making shoes in rwhich a channel is made on the upper side of the outer sole at the forepart, substantially paralleling and extending toward the edge thereof and the channel leaf is folded outwardly and secured to the upper side near the edge of the sole, whereby, after the upper is secured to the sole and the edges of the sole are trimmed, the general appearance of the welttype of shoe construction is simulated.

Other objects of the invention will in part be obvious and part appear hereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises the several steps and the relation and order of one or more of such steps with respect to each of the others, and the article possessing the features, properties, and the relation of elements, which are exemplified in the following detailed disclosure, and the scope of the application of which will be indicated in the claims.

For a fuller understanding of the nature and objects of the invention, reference should be had to the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the upper side of an outer sole, showing the rst step inthe preparation of the outer sole in the improved method of construction;

Fig. 1a is a transverse sectional view taken along the line la-la in Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Figs. 2, 2a, 3, 3a, and 4, 4a are figures similar to Figs. 1 and 1a respectively, showing subsequent steps in the preparation of the sole.

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of a lasted upper with the prepared outer sole located thereon prior to the sole afxing operation;

Fig. 5a isa transverse sectional view taken along the Vline 5a-5a in Fig. 5 looking in the direction of the arrows.

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the completed shoe; and,

Fig. 6a is a transverse sectional view taken o0 along line 6a-6a in Fig. 6 looking in the direction of the arrows.

The improved method of construction hereafter described in detail is particularly adapted to the manufacture of mens shoes, and the drawings illustrate the novel method applied to such shoes. It is to be understood, however, that the principles of the invention are likewise applicable to the manufacture of womens and childrens shoes, and to boots, slippers and other types of footwear; the word shoe being used herein in a generic sense.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, in Fig. 1 there is shown an outer sole 10, which is rst cut at 11 substantially parallel to the 75 edge of the sole and then from the center toward the edge to form a channel leaf 12, this channelling preferably extending from the front of the shank on the inside at 13 around the forepart and to the rear of the shank on the outside at 14. In mens shoes of the usual type the initial out of the channel 11 is disposed inwardly from the edge of the sole about 1/2 inch, and extends'outwardly toward the edge of the sole forabout a, inch, so that the channel 1eaf 12 is 85 approximately the same width as the remaining unchanneled edge l5 of the sole. The rst cut of the 'channel 11 preferably goes downwardly in a substantially vertical direction from the upper side of the sole to form a vertical shoulder 16, and the bottom of the channel then slopes upwardly toward the upper part of the sole to a point 17, so that, as is shown particularly in Fig. 1a, the free edge of the channel leaf 12 is 95 thicker than the portion adjacent the point 17.

Also, as shown in Fig. 1, either before or after the channelling operation aforesaid, the channel leaf 12 or that portion of the sole at the toe which corresponds thereto, is slashed radially on the curve at the toe, as at 18, to form a plurality of independent portions 19.

As shown particularly in Fig. 2, after the channel leaf 12 and the individual portions 19 have been formed, the leaf is tempered, raised and folded over at the point 17 outwardly so that its free edge lies adjacent the outer edge 20 of the sole. As the channel leaf is folded over, the individual portions 19 thereof at the toe act to compensate for the sharp arc at the toe, and the slight irregularities in thickness at this point, are later filled as hereinafter described.

rlhe channel leaf then is securely cemented at 21 to the portion 15 of the outer sole so that the edge of that portion of the sole which has been channeled appears to have been `formed, of thick- -y er sole leatherthanviisfaetually the f case." While considerableV variation Ain thel thickness' f `the leather and the depth of the cut 16 is'possible,v in practice it has been found convenient, for ex-vv ample, to use as stock for the outer sole 9-iron: leather, and to make the vertical cut 16 of i such-1 depth that when the channel leaf isfoldedback and cemented to the upper edge of the outer sole,'V the composite edge 20' will have a thickness of ab0utl4-irons, i. e., about 5-irons .thicker than the original stock actually measures.

In Figs. 3 and 3a the channel leaf is shown cemented down. In this gure the next operation is also shown, namely; that of roughing the upper side of the outer sole preparatory to applying the cement for aixing it to the upper and insole assembly, is illustrated. This roughing operation, indicated at 22, extends throughout both sides of the shank and around the forepart; that is, from a point 23 on the inside of the heel seat to the point 14 on the outside thereof. It may be conveniently accomplished by subjecting those portions to be roughed to the action of a set of rotating needles, whereby the bres in the leather are roughed up for a width of about 1/2 inch, so that it will readily accept the cement and ultimately form a firm bond or union with the similarly roughed and cemented lasting allowance of a lasted upper. The center of the forepart is preferably left in its smooth condition, and the depth of the roughing operation around hat portion of the sole which has been channeled is preferably sufficient substantially to obliterate the shoulder 16 which was left by the channeling operation to provide a level seat for lasted upper.

As is shown inFigs. 4 and 4a, the preparation of the outer sole for application to the lasted upper is then completed by applying one or more coats of a suitable adhesive 24, such as pyroxylin cement, to the roughed portion 22, such cement usually being allowed to dry before affixing the soleto the upper. Also the slight irregularities left at the toe, by reason of-the spaces between the individual portions 19 of the channel leaf 12, are filled.,A as with wax, in the usual manner, as shown at 25.

As shown=` in Fig. 5, the prepared outer sole is next located at the heel with one or more tacks 26; on a previously prepared lasted upper 27 having its lasting allowance 28 roughed and cemented. The sole aflixing operation, per se, may be carried out in the usual way, i. e., by `applying a softener to the cement on thesole and the upper and clamping the shoein a pressure jack until the cement has dried to form a firm union between the sole and the upper. The locating of the lasted upper on the sole is facilitated by reason of the fact that the pocket 29 in the outer sole, between the lines 17 where the channel leaf is laid back, is formed accurately to' fit the lasted upper. This construction also'tends to strengthen the union between the lasted upper andthe outer sole in that the pocket 29 takes up lateral strains between the sole and the upper, by

virtue of the transversely interlocked construction arising from the 'mating of the corresponding elevated and depressed portions of the lasted upper and the inner sole, as is best illustrated in 1,951,913 I h ,i

Fig. 6. It will be noted that the relatively bulging lasting allowance 28 snugly seats within the roughed channel or groove at 22, while the unroughed central portion of the forepart of the outer sole snugly seats against the relatively depressed centralinner soleportionof. the ,forepart offtheupper.: Wahine maken@ site.: edges further embracing `and lockng"the pper against relative" transverse displacement.

.7,7 will be seen from Fig. 6, the outer sole is then edge trimmed, wheeled, and set. The

`iinished-z shoe, has a neat and attractive appear- .:ance in thatthe edge20a of the forepart and of ,the outsideof the shankappears to be of a thickness approximately equal to that of the ordinary welt shoe; whereas the edge of the shank portion of the sole on the inside at 20h fits neatly up into the shank or arch and gives a tailored effect which cannot be secured with the usual welttype of shoe. It should be understood, however, that if desired, the channeling `operation maybe extended throughout" the inside of.' the1shankL l The construction illustrated is preferred, how-l ever, since the absence of thethickenediedge'at the inside of the shank also increases the .flex-` ibility of the shoe.v -Y

It will thus be seen thatby the principles `Vof the present invention, there: has been provided a novel, eiiicient and economicalprocess for making shoes, and a product whichy has-improved features over the welt-type vof shoe construction, al-

though the shoe appears to have: afsole of sub-` stantially the same thicknessias that `of"the welt-type shoe. v

Since certain changes may be imade in carry-Yv` ing out the above method'without departing from' the scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limitingsense. f y :1

as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is :I l

1. A method of preparing anV outer solefor adhesive axation to a` lasted upper comprising,v

in combination, channeling the sole on itsupper side from the insideytoward the edge,A around It is also to be understood thatthe following" claims are intended to cover all v-of the generic" and specific features of the invention herein de# scribed, and all statements of the scope of"the" the forepart, raising the channel leaf thus formed,

folding it over outwardly, and securing Vit tothe upper side of the sole whereby an eiectof increased thickness of sole around the forepart is obtained. v

2. A method of preparing van outer sole'for* adhesive aiixation to a lasted upper comprising,

in combination, channeling the sole on its upper side from the inside toward the edge, around'the forepart and the outside of the shank, raising the channel leaf thus formed, folding it over outwardly, and securing it to the upper4 sideof the sole whereby an effect of increased ythickness of sole around the forepartand the outside ofthe shank is obtained.

3. A method of preparing an' outer solefor`` adhesive affixation to a lasted upper comprising, in combination, forming an outer vsole with a channel on its upper side cut from the inside toward the edge around the forepartv with Vthe channel leaf thus formed slashed at the toe, raiss ing the entire `channel leaf, folding it vover outwardly, and securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the'forepart is obtained.

' side from the inside toward the edge around the forepart and the outside of the shank, slashing the channel leaf thus formed at the toe, raising the entire channel leaf, folding it over outwardly, and securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the forepart and outside of the shank is obtained.

5. A method of preparing an outer sole for adhesive aflixation to a lasted upper comprising, in combination, channeling the sole on its upper side from the inside toward the edge around the forepart, slashing the channel leaf thus formed at the toe, raising the entire channel leaf, folding it over outwardly, and securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the forepart is obtained; said channel being deeper on the inside than on the outside, whereby the channel leaf is thicker at its free edge than at the point where it is folded.

6. A method of preparing an outer sole for adhesive alixation to a lasted upper comprising, in combination, channeling the sole on its upper side from the inside toward the edge around the forepart, slashing the channel leaf thus formed at the toe, raising the entire channel leaf, folding it over outwardly, securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the forepart is obtained, and roughing the outer margins of the shank portions and of that portion of the forepart on the inside of the folded channel leaf to loosen the bres thereof whereby it may properly accept an adhesive cement.

'7. A method of preparing an outer sole for adhesive aixation to a lasted upper comprising, in combination, channeling the sole on its up'per side from the inside toward the edge around the forepart, slashing the channel leaf thus formed at the toe, raising the entire channel leaf, folding it over outwardly, securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the forepart is obtained, roughing the outer margins of the shank portions and of that Iportion of the forepart on the inside of the folded channel leaf to loosen the bres thereof whereby it may properly accept an adhesive cement, and applying an adhesive cement to said roughed portion.

8. A method of preparing an outer sole for adhesive afxation to a lasted upper comprising, in combination, channeling the soleon its upper side from the inside toward the edge around the forepart, slashing the channel leaf thus formed at the toe, raising the entire channel leaf, folding it over outwardly, securing it to the upper side of the sole whereby an effect of increased thickness of sole around the forepart is obtained, roughing the outer edge of the shank portions and that portion of the forepart on the inside of the folded channel` leaf to loosen the flbres thereof whereby it may properly accept an adhesive cement, applying an adhesive cement to said roughed portion, and filling any spaces between the slashed portions of the overturned channel leaf at the toe.

9. As a new article of manufacture, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a channel spaced inwardly from the sole edge around the forepart, a channel leaf containing stock removed from said channel integrally united with said sole along the outer edge of said channel, said leaf overlying and being secured to the upper side of the sole at the edge to augment the thickness of the sole edge.

10. As a new article of manufacture, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a channel spaced inwardly from the sole edge around the forepart and the outer side of the shank, a channel leaf containing stock removed from said channel integrally united with said sole along the outer edge of said channel, said leaf overlying and being secured to the upper` side-of the sole at the edge to augment the thickness of the sole edge.

11. As a new article of manufacture, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a channel spaced inwardly from the sole edge around the forepart and the outer side of the shank, a channel leaf containing stock removed from said channel integrally united with said sole along the outer edge of said channel, said leaf overlying and being secured to the upper side of the sole at the edge to augment the thickness of the sole edge; said sole having its upper surface roughed along the margins of the shank and that portion of the forepart inside of the folded channel leaf.

12. As a new article of manufacture, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a channel spaced inwardly from the sole edge around` the forepart and the outer side of the shank, a channel leaf containing stock removed from said channel integrally united with said sole along the outer edge of said channel, said leaf overlying and being secured to the upper side of the sole at the edge to augment the thickness of thersole edge; said sole having its upper surface roughed and cemented along the margins of the shank and that portion of the forepart inside of the folded channel leaf.

13. As a new article of manufacture, a shoe comprising an upper having an inner sole and an overlying lasting allowance at its forepart which forms with the central portion of said inner sole at the forepart a shoe bottom cavity, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a depression or groove spaced inwardly from the sole edge around the forepart, a channel leaf containing stock removed from said depression integrally united with said sole along the outer edge of said depression, said leaf overlying and being secured to the upper side of the sole at the edge to augment the edge thickness of the sole, whereby the forepart of said sole has its central portion elevated with respect to said depression and has its edge portion elevated with respect to the central portion; said outer sole and upper being adhesively and permanently united in a position such that the lasting allowance of the forepart is snugly seated in said sole depression, with the outer edge of the lasting allowance abuttingthe inner side wall of the elevated edge of the sole and the elevated central portion of the outer sole forepart snugly seated in the bottom cavity of the shoe.

14. Asa new article of manufacture, a shoe comprising an upper having an inner sole and an overlying lasting allowance at its forepart which forms with the central portion of said inner sole at the forepart a shoe bottom cavity, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a depression or groove spaced inwardly from the sole edge around the forepart, and having its central portion elevated with respect to said depres- 15. As a new article of manufacture, an outer sole having its upper surface provided with a depression or groove spaced inwardly fromthe sole edge around the forepart, the surface of said depression being roughed for cementing, said outer sole having its central portion elevated with respect to said depression and having its edge portion relatively higher or thicker than said central portion. Y

FRITZ HOLLAND.

ISAAC F. DAMON. 

